In this episode, we discuss Chronic Bee Paralysis Virus and why grafting in the rain probably isn’t a good idea.
We talk about the downs of beekeeping, but still have a laugh.
The beekeeping season has well and truly kicked off. Paul has been queen rearing in the rain, Tracey has moved her bees to Poo Farm.
We chart about Snelgove boards, grumpy bees and are joined by Tracey’s dog and cats.
IF you fancy coming on the podcast check out thebeehivejive.com/chat
The new season is here!!
Tracey has been roaming the outback of Australia, probably wrestling crocs but she made it back in time to record the first podcast of the year.
Spring has sprung, and we’ve been in our hives, all alive and well … the stresses of beekeeping
Paul is worried about swarm control and is planning to try the Snelgrove board method this year. Tracey has had great success in overwintering her colonies in poly hives now has started moving them into wood for the summer honey flows.
She is also looking forward to moving bees back to the sewage works … erm … I mean the water treatment plant.
We’re looking for a guests, so if you’ve ever fancied being on the podcast drop us a line at firstname.lastname@example.org and we’ll arrange a date.
In this episode of the worst introduced podcast in beekeeping, we chat with friend of the show John who has been keeping bees for a few years.
00:00 – 08:00: Paul’s oxalic sublimation method
08:00 – 14:00: The Croydon honey show
14:00 – 27:00: John’s honey year
27:00 – 34:00: John and Pauls beekeeping exam day
34:00 – 40:00: John’s top tip
40:00 – 48:00: Grouchy bees
48:00 – 55:00: How to spot a queen
55:00 – 01:05: Asian hornet update
01:05 – 01:22: Overwintering setups
If you extracted your honey weeks ago, but still have sticky bowls of cappings lurking in your kitchen, you’re not alone! What to do with the cappings is a perennial question in beekeeping.
Tried and tested methods
There are a few commonly used ways to deal with cappings at extraction time and in choosing the method that suits you best, bear in mind that beeswax is a valuable item. Did you know that the bees must eat 8 to 10 pounds of honey in order to produce 1 pound of beeswax? It deserves our respect!
Melting and refining cappings
My preference for dealing with cappings is always to melt and refine them so that I can have honey-scented blocks of natural beeswax to use. I love beeswax, even more so than honey. It has an aura of the exquisite about it.
Wax recovery and refining does require some patience and attention to detail, especially if you are aiming to enter the results into a honey show. But the process itself is simple and doesn’t require any specialised equipment.
You do need some basic health and safety common sense because beeswax is highly flammable – so you need to be very careful when melting it. More on that later . . .
Prepare the cappings
I am by no means an expert in beeswax! However the following method has served me very well.
First, clean the cappings. They will be full of honey for a start, plus bits of bee, probably some pollen, propolis etc. If you are doing this for the honey shows you will need to pick over the cappings and remove any dark ones that could spoil the beautiful pale, luminous finish that you are aiming for.
In most places it is essential to use rainwater to wash the cappings rather than hard tap water (otherwise you can end up with a soap-like substance). Hopefully you have a water butt! Fill your kitchen sink with rainwater and scrub the cappings with your hands, separating them from any honey clumps as you do so.
The melting pot
Set up a double boiler and bring it to a gentle simmer. Put the dry cappings into the top part and let them melt gently. NB: don’t stir them and don’t put a lid over them as it will cause the wax to heat too quickly, which could be a fire hazard.
Have ready an old measuring jug or even a large plastic water bottle with the top cut off. Cover the top with a nappy liner using a rubber band (or a J Cloth), and push it down slightly to make room for the wax that you are about to pour in.
As soon as the wax is melted, pour it from the double boiler into your receptacle. Once the wax has filtered through and any remaining impurities have been removed, you can pour it into your chosen mould which could be anything really – a piece of glass or crockery or a mould you have purchased.
Put the filled mould into a draft-free place to cool.
You will want to protect your kitchen while doing this! I have several sheets of aluminium foil that I use every year, particularly on my stove top and on the floor.
Warning: beeswax is highly flammable
Although beeswax melts at a relatively low temperature (62 to 64 degrees C), if you don’t watch if carefully it can overheat and reach a flashpoint where it gives off enough vapour to ignite in air. The flashpoint of beeswax is 204.4 degrees C. Never leave it unattended, ensure that the wax cannot come into contact with direct heat, never put a lid on the pot and never put beeswax in the oven while the oven is hot! It definitely is NOT a good idea to try to melt the cappings in the oven.
Just a few things that you can do with your beeswax:
- Make candles – they are great Christmas presents
- Make simple lotions and potions at home – e.g. lip balms
- Make beeswax polish – equal amounts of turpentine and melted beeswax (smells lovely)
- Enter blocks into honey shows!
- Give small blocks as gifts to others who want to make candles etc.
- You can even make your own foundation though this requires special equipment for embossing the sheets
- Or you could simply save the wax and trade it for next year’s foundation.
There are also others that I haven’t tried, like making beeswax wraps as a substitute for cling film. I haven’t explored that one yet but it sounds brilliant. (There is a workshop on this at the National Honey Show this year but it has already sold out!).
Next time: how to deal with wax from the wax extractor . . .
In this episode of the beehive jive, Tracey and Paul visit each others hives and chat about what they achieved this season.
00:00 – 08:30: We visited Paul’s bees to see what was up
08:30 – 11:30: We dared to visit Tracey’s bees as well
11:30 – 53:00: Did we achieve our goals for this season?
53:00 – 01:00: Varroa treatment ramble
Tracey and Paul discuss poly hives, forget the name of varroa treatments and Tracey has discovered sugar rolling.
00:00 – 04:00: The most random of beekeeping updates
04:00 – 07:00: Superseder problems
07:00 – 16:00: Managing lots of poly nucs
16:00 – 18:00: Tracey’s honey shack
18:00 – 23:00: Over wintering on poly hives
23:00 – 34:00: Poly hive vs. woodern hives
34:00 – 47:00: Sugar rolling
47:00 – 01:05: Tracey’s bee safaris
If you haven’t already started your end-of-summer varroa treatments, then you will be thinking about it now.
Here in Southeast England the heatwave ended the nectar flow earlied than usual, so I’m going to get started on the treatments.
First, work out the size of the varroa problem
I don’t routinely treat my colonies with varroacides at this time of year. I usually prefer to first do a mite count in each colony to see if a treatment is needed.
This approach can be risky, because you need a reliable method of obtaining an accurate varroa level. If you get it wrong and underestimate the varroa population – well, you know what can happen, and how devastating it can be.
The most accurate way of measuring varroa levels is actually an alcohol wash BUT this has the drawback of killing the bees that are used for the test.
So this year I chose to use the sugar roll method which also has good accuracy and doesn’t kill the bees.
Equipment needed for a sugar roll
I was inspired to try this method when Paul (my Beehive Jive co-host) gave me a kit from the University of Minnesota, which was put together to promote the sugar roll method that they developed.
It’s a really handy kit in a plastic tub that contains everything you need to do a sugar roll: a scoop to measure the right number of bees for the test (approx. 100 bees), a plastic ‘jar’ with a wire mesh lid to roll the bees in, icing sugar, and the tub itself, to shake the icing sugar and mites into at the end.
Obviously you could assemble the kit yourself very easily.
Simple and effective
The sugar roll is so simple: shake the bees from a brood frame or two into the plastic tub, then fill the scoop with bees and put them into the jar with the lid on. Just make sure that the queen doesn’t end up in there!
Put approx. two tablespoons of icing sugar into the jar, through the mesh, using your hive tool.
Then simply roll and shake the bees in the jar until they are coated with the sugar. Leave the bees in a cool place for a couple of minutes and then . . .
THE FUN PART: shake the icing sugar out of the jar, into the plastic tub. You can literally see the mites shaking out amongst the sugar! Scary but fascinating!
THE SERIOUS PART: count the mites that have shaken out into the tub (I find it easier to do this if I first spray some water into it). If there is brood in the colony when you do the test, you must then
DOUBLE the number of mites that you have counted.
The sugar roll method is essentially telling you how many mites you have per hundred bees. If the result is more than 10-12 mites per colony, you need to take action immediately.
Once you’re done, tip the bees in the jar onto the tops of the frames. They will look slightly dizzy but will be fine!
A win-win method for the bees and the beekeeper
I love this method because it’s simple, clean and almost instant. Just what you need when making the decision about how to manage your colonies at this crucial time of year, when the winter bees will start developing.
In the past I have used the varroa drop method, where you count the mites that drop onto the tray through the open mesh floor. I never felt completely confident about this because often it was difficult to find the mites amongst other debris on the tray, and some colonies seemed to clean the tray, so I had no idea how many mites were there to begin with.
It’s worth noting that the sugar roll is not the same as when you dust the bees with icing sugar to encourage them to groom their mites off. The sugar roll is a different method and an accurate one.
So, thanks to the University of Minnesota for this simple way of getting an accurate varroa reading in just a few minutes, without harming the bees.
If you listen to the Beehive Jive podcast (and you should), you’ll know that Tracey and I are big fans of polystyrene nucleus boxes, by fans I mean borderline obsessed.
These cheap, lightweight and flexible little hives are the swiss army knives of beekeeping. Every year I put mine hard to work: catching and controlling swarms, splitting hives and queen rearing. April I move six poly nucs to my apiaries where they are invaluable throughout the season. I’m own four types of poly-hive: Paynes, Maisemore, Lyson mating nucs and this year the BS Honey 2in1 nuc.
BS Honey are the new kids on the poly block and late last season launched an innovative 2 in 1 hive; allowing beekeepers to run two, three frame, colonies in the same box – or use it as a simple six frame box. Sharing the same dimensions as the popular Maisemore nuc, you can use additional brood boxes and supers purchases for the Masie hive with the BS Honey boxes. I grabbed eight of them at last years National Honey Show and used them in queen rearing this year.
The nuc includes an integrated hive top feeder, dividing board and has an entrance at each end. The corex dividing board separates the two halves of the nuc box preventing bees, or more importantly, queens crossing between the two colonies. I’ve raised about twenty queens in these boxes and never experienced leakage between the two sides. As the bees start to build the frames out, the separating corex board often bends, and the frames become quite tight in the box; requiring finesse when removing the frames. In day to day use, I transfer the colonies to larger six frame nucs once I’ve established a mated and laying queen is present.
The corex board has two positions, either in the centre position for a two colony configuration or stored at the side if you are using the box as a traditional six frame nuc. I would strongly recommend using the stored position, or like me, you can simply lose a board by putting is ‘somewhere safe’ in the apiary and then forgetting where that is.
The bees do fill the board runners with propolis, I’ve had to scrape them out regularly to use the stored position – I’m only going to be using them for mating nucs next season and leaving the board in the centre position means no more runner scraping for me.
The hive top feeder is very clever; it separates each of the sides of the hive with a shared syrup reservoir; if you over-winter them as six frames nucs a silicon stopper can be removed allowing you to lay fondant in the feeder.
All season I’ve used these hives in my queen rearing program (it’s not a program, just me swearing a lot a being amazed I’ve got new queens – but program sounds like I have a plan) and in a small-scale queen rearing workflow three frame mating nucs are a joy. A frame of brood, food and an empty frame for the bees to work means that the nuc requires little care during the three to four-week mating process. After a year using the BS Honey 2in1, I wouldn’t be without them now.
BS Honey have raised the bar for poly-nuc innovation; I look forward to seeing how the other manufacturers in the industry react further feeding my poly nuc addiction.
You can find BS Honey at https://www.bshoneybees.co.uk/